A fire is a fire, and a fire extinguisher is a fire extinguisher, right? Well, not quite. There are actually different types of fires and different types of extinguishers that respond best to each. So, which is right for you?
We’ll get to that, but first let’s look at the five different fire types, as outlined by the Fire Equipment Manufacturers’ Association:

• Class A: Fires in ordinary combustibles, such as wood, paper, cloth, etc.
• Class B: Fires in flammable liquids, like gasoline, or flammable gasses, such as propane.
• Class C: Fires in energized electrical equipment, such as appliances or motors.
• Class D: Fires in combustible metals.
• Class K: Fires in cooking oils and greases, such as animal and vegetable fats.

Selecting a Fire Extinguisher
For each fire class, there’s a fire extinguisher to match, and it’s important to use the right one. For example, an extinguisher rated for Class B fires only might not be appropriate to use on another fire. In fact, it might even be dangerous.
So, how do you pick a fire extinguisher? Do you need several? A good bet is a multipurpose extinguisher, which typically is rated for Class A, B and C fires and available at home improvement stores. This type of extinguisher is typically good for general living areas and will work on small grease fires, as well. Specialized kitchen extinguishers are available, too. (Note: Class K extinguishers are typically for large commercial kitchens.)
No matter which type you choose, you want:

• An extinguisher that’s large enough to put out a small fire but not too heavy to handle safely.
• One that carries the label of an independent testing laboratory.
• One for each level of your home, as well as in the garage.

Using a Fire Extinguisher
Before you use a fire extinguisher — or try to fight a fire with any method — make sure you consider the following questions:

• Is the fire small and contained?
• Are you safe from toxic smoke?
• Do you have a way to escape?
• Do your instincts tell you it’s OK?

If you’ve answered “yes” to those questions, the National Fire Protection Association recommends remembering “P.A.S.S.” when it’s time to use your extinguisher:

• Pull the pin.
• Aim the nozzle or hose at the base of the fire.
• Squeeze the lever.
• Sweep the hose from side to side. Once the fire is out, remain aware, because it can re-ignite.

Maintaining a Fire Extinguisher
It’s easy to just put an extinguisher in your kitchen cabinet and forget about it. But, by doing that, you run the risk of it not working when you need it most.
According to the U.S. Fire Administration, some need to be shaken monthly, and others need to be pressure tested periodically. Follow the instructions on your specific extinguisher. Also, check regularly to make sure it’s not damaged, rusted or dirty.
Remember, a fire extinguisher won’t do you any good if it doesn’t work, and it won’t help if you can’t get to it, either. So, ensure it’s in an accessible place, not buried in the back of a closet.
Finally, don’t ever forget that sometimes your best bet is not using an extinguisher at all. It’s using your family escape plan to get you and your loved ones out of danger. If there’s any doubt, get out!
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Imagine you took the roof off your house, turned the whole thing upside down and started shaking. Everything that hit the dirt is what your insurance company calls “personal property” – hence Personal Property Coverage (Coverage C) on your homeowners, condo or renters policy.
Some people call it “my stuff coverage” because, in the event of a covered loss, such as a fire, theft or weather-related damage, it helps you recover, at least partially, the investment you’ve made in some of your key possessions. This includes furniture, artwork, jewelry and more.
However, in my experience, hardly anyone understands the restrictions and limitations of this coverage, and that can lead to potentially devastating consequences. So, let’s explore six reasons why your personal property may not be as fully covered as you think it is.

1. You don’t have an updated home inventory.
   On a standard policy, your personal property is covered at a percentage of your dwelling coverage. So, you may have $500,000 of coverage for the dwelling and $250,000 of coverage for personal property. But, is that enough? To know for sure, you need to know the value of your stuff. Having a home inventory – a list of all your stuff, the value of each piece and other details, such as model numbers – tells you how much coverage you need. If your home inventory shows you’re lacking coverage, be sure to purchase more.
   
   
2. You have Actual Cash Value coverage instead of Replacement Cost coverage.
   Say you purchased a brand new, top-of-the-line TV five years ago. Today, that TV is only worth a fraction of what you paid for it. Now say the TV has been stolen, and your insurance policy covers the loss. How much will you get?
   
   With Actual Cash Value Coverage, your policy will typically pay the depreciated value, and, no, it won’t be enough to purchase another top-of-the-line model at current prices. For that, you need Replacement Cost Coverage, which typically pays the purchase price of a similar model that’s available in stores right now.
   
   Think of it like this: Replacement Cost gets you the new; Actual Cash Value is back in with the old. Your policy will tell you which of the two coverage types applies to your personal property.
   
   
3. Your policy has sublimits for certain item types.
   Other types of property, such as jewelry, silver, furs, firearms and collectibles, won’t settle at either Actual Cash Value or Replacement Cost if their value is above a certain threshold. You may have a $20,000 Rolex and $50,000 in Personal Property Coverage at Replacement Cost. If the watch is destroyed in a fire, your claim should be a slam dunk, right? Wrong. Your policy may only cover each piece of jewelry for $500 to $1,000 total. This is known as a “policy sublimit,” which can vary widely from item type to item type, policy to policy or state to state.
   
   
4. You haven’t scheduled high-value items.
   When you do have an item, such as the Rolex, valued above your policy sublimits, you can “schedule” it. This designates separate coverage for the full appraised value of individual items. You can schedule as many items as you like to help offset your policy sublimits. It’s simple to do so. Just provide your local insurance agent with a recent appraisal and purchase that amount of coverage. Your agent will advise you on any special requirements.
   
   
5. You tend to lose or drop things but don’t have Special Personal Property Coverage.
   It’s important to know which losses are covered and which aren’t, as outlined by your policy. Personal property destroyed in a fire? Likely covered. Personal property that mysteriously disappeared? Likely not covered, unless you had Special Personal Property Coverage on your policy. This extends your coverage to many other different types of losses so you’re protected for a wider array of scenarios, such as dropping your new TV.
   
   
6. Your belongings are destroyed in an earthquake.
   Here, we’ve hit a brick wall. Your policy does not cover earthquake damage. However, you are able to purchase earthquake coverage for an additional fee, such as through the California Earthquake Authority (CEA). You can choose higher personal property limits to cover as much as you can, but you will likely still face coverage caps for certain items, such as jewelry. For example, your earthquake policy may cap jewelry coverage at $3,000 total, with no more than $1,000 per item. You also won’t be able to schedule items. Still, some earthquake coverage is better than none, so it’s certainly worth entertaining a discussion with your agent.
   
   

Armed with the above information, I trust you’re now motivated to check up on your personal property coverage through your homeowners, condo or renters policy. If you’re not sure what to make of it or you find you may not have enough, be sure to talk to your independent agent immediately so you have the coverage you want before a loss occurs.